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Travel in Ladakh
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Discover Ladakh
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New Areas Ladakh -
Ladakh which were formerly closed to
foreigners on account of their sensitive strategic position or proximity to
international borders have recently been partially opened. Movement within them
however is limited to a number of specifically designated circuits, and foreign
visitors are allowed to go only in groups, accompanied by a recognized/
registered tour operator. The maximum time allowed on any circuit is seven days.
Drok-pa-circuit, Nubra Valley Circuit, Pangong Lake Circuit, and Tso-Moriri
Circuit are new Areas for the trekkers or travelers in Ladakh.
Drok-pa
Circuit Area
In the Ladakh Valley down the Indus, between Khalatse and the Shayok
-Indus confluence also called Indus River, live a people, known as Drok-pa,
Buddhists in name, but racially and culturally distinct from the rest of
the Ladakhis. Two of the five villages inhabited by them may now be
visited, Dah and Biama. The route follows the Indus down from Khalatse,
past the villages of Domkhar, Skurbuchan and Achinathang, along a fairly
good road.
In the gorge of the Indus the sun's heat, reflected off bare rocks and
cliffs, is frequently intense. The same heat makes it possible to take
two crops every yera from the fields. Fruit is also grown- apricots,
apples, walnuts and even grapes. Skurbuchan, Domkhar and Achinathang are
attractive villages in Ladakh Valley, with an air of modest prosperity
about them.
But the special interest of this region is less the landscape then its
Drok-pa inhabitants. A minuscule community of perhaps no more than a
couple of thousand, their features are pure Indo-Aryan, and they appear
to have preserved their racial purity down the centuries. Their culture
and religious practices are more akin to the ancient pre-Buddhist
animist religion known as Bon-chos than to Buddhism as practised in the
rest of Ladakh.
One curious feature is their abhorrence of the cow, or any of its
products. They have preserved their ancient traditions and way of life
partly through the celebration of the triennial Bono-na festival, a
celebration of the harves, and partly through their songs and hymns. One
of these is a description of an ibex-hunt for the ibex is specially
sacred to them. Another recalls their migration from Gilgit - an event
which must have occurred well before Gilgit came under the influence of
Islam. Their language is said to be akin to that spoken in Gilgit, and
by immigrants from Gilgit settled in Dras. Such a small and racially and
culturally homogeneous community is bound to have much to offer scholars
in the fields of ethnology and social anthropology.
Nubra Valley Circuit Area
The upper Shayok and Nubra rivers drain the east and west sides of the
Saser Spur, the eastern most outcrop of the Karakoram. The name Nubra is
applied to the district comprising the valley of the Nubra river, and
that of the Shayok both above and below their confluence, where they
meander in many shifting channels over a broad sandy plain before
flowing off to the northwest to join the Indus in Baltistan.
The route from Leh takes the traveler over the Khardung-la, the highest
motorable road in the world. The line of the road is different from that
of the old pony-trail - longer and actually higher (18,300 feet / 5,578
m). The view from the top of the pass is amazing. One can see all the
way south over the Indus valley to the seemingly endless peaks and
ridges of the Zanskar range, and north to the giants of the Saser
massif. For several kilometers, on each side of the pass, the road
covered by deep snow in winter, is rough; for the rest of the way the
surface is good.
At the confluence of the two rivers there is no dearth of water, but the
sandy soil is not suitable for agriculture, which is confined to the
alluvial fans where side streams debouch into the main valley. The
valley floor itself is covered with dense thickets of seabuckthorn - a
thorny shrub- which the villagers use for fuel and for fencing their
fields ; though indeed, there is now less need for this than there was
in the days of the caravan trade with Central Asia when up to 10,000
horses a year are said to have traversed the district. The villages are
large and seem prosperous, and have thick plantations of willow and
popular. The altitude is little less than that of Leh, varying between
10,000 feet (3,048 m) at Hundar, and 10,600 feet (3,231 m) at Panamik.
Summer temperatures vary between 15 degree celcius and 28 degree celcius.
The main village is Deskit, which has a regular bazaar consisting of a
single line of shops, and a gompa. This is situated on a rocky spur
above the village with commanding views up and down the valley. From
Deskit, the tour circuit proceeds down the Shayok to Hundar, past an
area of rolling sand dunes, their contours apparently solid, yet liable
to shift with every gale. Here there is a small population of Bactrian
camels, shaggy double-humped animals, which in the old days, were used
as pack animals on the Central Asian trade routes. During the past 50
years, they have been bred for transport purposes in Nubra; today
visitors can take a camel safari out into the dunes from Hundar.
The other circuit proceeds up the Nubra river, taking in the pretty
villages of Tirit, Lukung, Tegar and Sumur. Nubra's other kanor
monastery, Samstaling is situated on the mountainside just above Sumur.
This was the route taken by the trade caravans, and Panamik, the last
village on this circuit, was at that time a busy centre, the last major
settlement before the caravans plunged into the mountains of the
Karakoram and the Kun-Lu. Here they invariable halted for a few days to
make final preparations for getting over the mountains, or to recuperate
afterwards. There would be no supplies, not even grazing for the
animals, for about 12 days after Panamik, so they had to carry all their
provisions for that time. The Government maintained a granary to sell
foodgrains for the men, and even for the horses.
Pangong
Lake Circuit Area
This route takes the
visitor past picturesque villages of Shey and Thikse, and turns off the
Indus valley by the side-valley of Chemrey and Sakti. The Ladakh range
is crossed by the Chang-la (18,000 feet / 5,475 m) which despite its
great elevation is one of the easier passes, remaining open for much of
the year even in winter, apart from periods of actual snowfall. Tangse,
just beyond the foot of the pass, has an ancient temple.
Tso-Moriri
Lake Circuit Area
The area traversed by the Manali Leh road, and containing the drainage
basins of Tso-moriri and other lakes is known as Rupshu. Here, the
Zanskar range is transformed into bare rolling many-hued hills divided
by open high altitude valley scoured by dust-devils. It is a landscape
unlike any other in Ladakh -or elsewhere in India.
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