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Culture Travel Ladakh -
Culture
on the crossroads in Ladakh:
The faces and physique of the Ladakhis, and
the clothes they wear, are more akin to those of Tibet and Central Asia than of
India. The original population may have been Dards, an Indo-Aryan race from down
the Indus. But immigration from Tibet, perhaps a millennium or so ago, largely
overwhelmed the culture of the Dards and obliterated their racial
characteristics. In eastern and central Ladakh, today's population seems to be
mostly of Tibetan origin. Further west, in and around Kargil, there is much in
the people's appearance that suggests a mixed origin.
In eastern and central Ladakh,
today’s population seems to be mostly of Tibetan origin. The exception to this
generalization is the
Arghons,
a community of
Muslims in Leh,
the descendants of marriages between local women and Kashmiri or Central Asian
merchants.
Buddhism
reached Tibet from India via Ladakh, and there are ancient Buddhist rock
engravings all over the region, even in areas like
Dras
and the lower
Suru
Valley
which today are inhabited by and exclusively Muslim population.
The
divide between the villages of
Parkachik
and
Rangdum
in the
Suru
Valley,
though there are pockets of Muslim population further east, in
Padum
(Zanskar), in
Nubra
Valley
and in and around Leh. The approach to a Buddhist village is invariably marked
by mani walls which are long chest-high structures faced with engraved stones
bearing the mantra om mane padme hum and by chorten, commemorative cairns, like
stone pepper-pots. Many villages are crowned with a gompa or monastery which may
be anything from an imposing complex of temples, prayer halls and monks’
dwellings, to a tiny hermitage housing a single image and home to a solitary
lama.
Islam
too came from the west. A peaceful penetration of the Shia sect spearheaded by
missionaries, its success was guaranteed by the early conversion of the
sub-rulers of Dras, Kargil and the Suru Valley.
The exception to this generalizations the Arghons,
a community of Muslims in Leh, the descendants of marriages between local women
and Kashmiri or Central Asian merchants.
The Emergence of Islamic Architecture in
Ladakh:
Today the
influence of Turko-Iranian architecture with its imposing minarates and
large onion shaped dom,es is conspicuous in the mosques and imambararas
of Ladakh, bnut this was not always the case. Until the mid –29th
century, Muslim buildings in Lakakh generally followed the same
construction principles of any other in the reagiion, consisting of a
simple one room structure of mud and stone, distinguished only nby a
small wooden dome in the center. An exception to this principle was the
mosque of Karcha Khar in Purig which was built by the m,other of the
Purig chief This Sultan (1700-46) in Kashmiri style. It was partly
damaged during the Dogra War in the 19th century.
The first mosque in Ladakh:
It
is not known when exactly Islam first came to the region, bnut it is
thought that perhaps the first mosque built in Ladkh was at Shey. This
is the Shah Hamadan Mosque, whose constructioin is attributed to Mir
Syed Ali Hamdani, the great Kashmiri Saint-scholar who visited Ladakh in
1381 or 1382 CE. Legend has it hat Hamdani was invited to Shey by the
queen of Ladakh, who at that time had borne no children, and she
requested the saint to fulfil her wish. After she gave birth to ther
first child the queen gave Hamdani a piece of land below the palace at
Shey, near the banks of the river. Another version of the story is that
the land belo0w the palace was flooded with water. Shah Hamadni touched
the water with his stick and it receded. Thus, the queen gifted him the
land.
The mosque at Shey
is a one –storey mud and stone structure, built in the traditioin of
local architecture in Ladakh, surrounded by a garden. It consists of a
large prayer room with a small storeroom on the right side. Sixwooden
pillars, with simple Ladakhi style carved capitals, Support the ceiling
from the inside. There is no separate prayer hall for women a curtain on
the right side of the room demarcates the area meant for them. The
original building had no dome, but in the early 1970s the wooden dome
from the Tshas Soma Mosque, now an abandoned mosque in Leh was added in
the center of the roof. The mosque has no minerates but a small one was
placed on the gate in 2001. The floor is covered with carpets, now
mostly new but a few felt coverings from Yarkand still survive.
Nowadays small prayer mats, offering form dovettes, have been placed
over the numadahs.
The first mosque in Leh
In the mid 16th
century King Jamyang namgyal went to war against the Balti ruler of
Skardu, Ali Sher Khan. Unfortunately he lost the war and was captu4red-
he was released later byt only after he agreed to marry the king of
Khaplu’s daughter, Gyhal Khatun, disnherit the sons of his previous
marriage in favour of any children from this one, and spread Islam in
the regioin. As the new bride Gyal Khatun made her way to Ladakh she
was accompanied by a large retinue of servants as well as artisan,
traders, and tailors amongst others. Most noteworthy among them,” …… a
band of musicians with their instruments came from Baltistan as part of
the dowry of Gyal Khatun,…… They were settled at Phiyang; and tey and
their descendants enjoyed the title of Kharmon. All these people lived
around the royal residential quarters in Leh and continued with their
trade there. No sooner had Gyal
Khatun come to Ladakh than the Aladakhis – in an effort to assimilate
her into the Buyddhist \faith – recognized her as an incarnationa of a
Buddhist goddesss, the white Tara. However, Gyal Khatun played no major
role in spreading Islam in Ladakh.
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